Block / Rotating Assy

Rotating Assembly

When I started my build, I learned the crank I had would require a .010 regrind. I needed to buy a new set of rods and more than likely, those rods would require rework, with an over-bore, I’d need new pistons. When I added all the numbers together, I was within about $300 of the cost of a stroker kit. I did some research and found an excellent resource, right in my backyard.

Searching the internet, I saw a reference to a site, www.StrokerKits.com. I visited the site and something caught my eye. Their phone number is in the same area code that I live. A quick look at www.411.com gave me the info they were about 20 miles from my home, in a neighboring town. Quess what was on the agenda for the next day at lunch?

I spent a couple visits to the shop run by Ronnie Besselman. In Saint Charles, MO, they are known as Allied Automotive. I learned they are one of the few remaining machine shops in the area. Things were beginning to fall into place when I also learned that Ronnie is not only a Ford guy, he also speaks “FE”. By the time it was all done, I was dropping my block off to him for machining and had a stroker kit on order.

Crank & Rods
Ronnie’s recommendation was the Scat FE Stroker kit. My block showed I could maybe go .050 over but decided to stop at .030. I could get more cubes with the 4.250 stroke but I chose to go with the 4.125  This combination would give me 431 inches. Close enough that I could display the 427 badge without pangs of guilt.

My motor is a hybrid. I chose to go with the internal balance, similar to the 390 and 427 blocks. Motors just last longer with this approach. Yea, it costs a few more bucks, but when done, you don’t need to worry about the correct damper, spacer or flywheel.

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That little slug on the second picture is one very expensive piece of metal – and I needed one in another counterweight, also.

Rods are a Chevy style journal, 6.700 inches long. A nice heavy duty forged rod with a 7/16″ ARP bolt set. The kit also included a set of Clevite main and rod bearings.

I spent a little time measuring and mike’ing pieces to make sure all the clearances were correct. Then as a belt and suspender approach, I used some plasti-gauge to check the clearances.

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Pistons

At Ronnie’s suggestion, I went with Diamond pistons – and was very pleasantly pleased with the quality of the set.