“Stringing” a car is the way racer’s do wheel alignment. You don’t need a fancy (expensive) computer aligner if you are willing to do some setup and understand basic measurements.
Prior to starting the alignment process, you need to determine the desired ride height of the vehicle. Adjust your coil-overs to the height you want and the vehicle is setting at the desired ride height. You should know the rolling radius of your tires. (It is not the diameter of the tire divided in half). To do the alignment, the frame should be setting level. I cut up some 2 x 6 and fabricated four stands that were “semi” calibrated to my garage floor. the rear ones were slightly longer to compensate for the floor slope. I also installed my quick jacks on each end of the vehicle and obtained two pieces of 1″ dia. aluminum tube.
I raised the car and positioned it on the blocks. I then used a spirit level (fabricated from fish tank air line) to level the top of each block. I used 1/16 and 1/8″ thick VCT floor tiles as shims under the blocks. When completed, the top of each block was in line with the others and the frame was setting level
using bunji cords, I mounted the aluminum tubes firmly into the notch of the quickjack. It doesn’t matter if they are parallel or not, their sole purpose is to hold reference string along side the body. I then ran a think string from front to rear. I had previously determined my frame was square so I could measure to the frame to split the distance between them. The concept is to have the two strings parallel and the frame centered between them
To measure caster, I used a digital angle gauge, mounted to the machined flat of the spindle. I own a set of alignment gauges but found this to be just as accurate and much faster. I chose to set caster at 4º
I used -1/2º camber on each sided. I mounted the angle gauge on the surface of the rotor for the measurement.
I mounted a marked board which I planted to used for bump steer measurements to set toe. I measured from the string to the board and set the front 1/32″ in from the rear.
I didn’t labor long on the measurements, I just wanted them close enough that I could perform the next check: Bump steer