A GT40 Build presents a number of challenges and decisions to be made. The body of the RCR is very good in its construction and attention to detail. However, it does not give you a complete replica. Do you want to assemble a car or do you want to build a replica? This must first be identified as it will affect the path of your build. The actual body molds produce a very good start. There are or may be issues with the assembled panels and the warpage your components may have experienced. All of this figures into your plan to do the bodywork.
Fiberglass has been described by some as “Arts & Crafts”. I liken it to working with drywall. Very easy to cut, patch and mold to a finished product. But, if you are not aware, it is very messy. Nitrile gloves and acetone will become a close friend. And you can’t have enough vacuum power to collect all the dust.
I have chosen the path of a replica, so have added several details to the build process. I’ve intermixed the corrective actions needed to build a functioning vehicle. Your build may or may not need these actions. But the list will give you an idea of what needs to be tackled.
This Section is still progressing – Please stay tuned as updates are issued
The various items are linked to pages with more detail of the work or modification
- Rocker Panels
- Build inner edge attachment to chassis
- Shape forward wheelwell to match chassis and fuel tank access door
- Rework upper edges to flatten, straighten and accept locating pins and latch bases
- Add rear flares
- Rework the mismatch of passenger side wheel opening
- Front Clip
- Reposition passenger side inner panel to center clip on chassis.
- Rework inner panels to accept clip pivot system
- Add reinforcing flange to chin, foam and mold opening cover
- Build panel edge reinforcing to clear pivot components
- Rework right front wheel opening to allow wheel to pivot
- Open NACA ducts
- Construct ductwork for air from forward NACA ducts to cockpit
- Open center NACA duct
- Move wiper mounting land to drivers side
- Mold sockets for clip locating pin and female sockets
- Reshape rear clip flange to remove warp
- Rework front brake scoop opening to duct air and give finished appearance
- Rear Clip
- Rework body sockets for rear pivot clamp plates.
- Cut rear vent panel
- Cut engine opening
- Mold sockets for clip locating pin and female sockets
- Remove single light pocket remold to accept twin lights as used on earlier models.
- Build and install lower oil cooler ducts
- Build and install upper brake cooling ducts
- Modify upper ducts to convert to engine compartment cooling flow.
- Trim/Extend forward edge of clip to match to spider edger
- Trim edge of clip to constant thickness to provide proper compression of bulb seal
- Match clip contour to that of spider and rocker panels.
- Remodel scoop to fair ducts to scoop
- Remodel rear wheel wells to add taillight panels
- Spider
- Flatten front cowl edge and build constant thickness
- Move wiper mounting land to drivers side
- Rebuild A-pillar base to provide anchor to chassis
- Trim flanges of door, wiundshield and clip openings
- Build up base of B-pillar for mounting to chassis
- Build mounting flange for rear bulkhead
- Rework inner roof panel to mate to rear bulkhead
- Doors
- Rework forward door area to accept clamp plates for hinges
- Build door boxes
- Flatten inner door to accept door box
- Rework door handle mold area to accept mounting angles
- Rework rear of door to accept latch and mold to give finished appearance.
- Overall Body
- Match clip contours to spider
- Match doors to surrounding panels
- Rework panel lines of scoop to match panels
- Dash
- Add flange to bottom edge
- Add reinforcing for panel mounting
- Remodel ends of dash to match A-pillar
- Remove warp from molding
- Remodel gauge openings and bezels
- Remodel steering column opening
- Remodel demister duct area to accept grille panel
- Add access hatch in demister duct to tighten wiper mounting
- Remodel drivers side lower A-pillar to accept A/C control panel

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